3D Printing in the Academy Awards, win an Oscar in best costume design
26/02/2019.
Black Panther directed by Ryan Coogler
metalocus, ANDREA GONZÁLEZ
metalocus, ANDREA GONZÁLEZ
Last weekend and beyond the silver screen buzz and Hollywood glam, the Oscars highlight professionals in non-acting categories like best original soundtrack, set design, and costume design. This year, a film, which received several awards, shined through its use of 3D printing and architectural design concepts.
3D printed costume for Queen Ramonda character in Collaboration Julia Koerner with Ruth E. Carter. Image courtesy of Marvel’s Black Panther / Costume Design by Ruth Carter
Left, a Zulu woman in the traditional headdress of a married woman; center, a conceptual costume sketch by Carter (design) and Ryan Meinerding and his team (concept artists); and right, the headdress as worn by Angela Bassett designed by Julia Koerner and Ruth Carter. Image courtesy of Getty Images; Marvel; Marvel/Disney
Queen Ramonda with 3D-printed crown and mantle. Image courtesy of Marvel’s Black Panther / Costume Design by Ruth Carter
3D printed costume for Queen Ramonda character in Collaboration Julia Koerner with Ruth E. Carter. Image courtesy of Marvel’s Black Panther / Costume Design by Ruth Carter
3D printed costume for Queen Ramonda character in Collaboration Julia Koerner with Ruth E. Carter. Image courtesy of Marvel’s Black Panther / Costume Design by Ruth Carter
3D printed costume for Queen Ramonda character in Collaboration Julia Koerner with Ruth E. Carter. Image courtesy of Marvel’s Black Panther / Costume Design by Ruth Carter
3D printed costume for Queen Ramonda character in Collaboration Julia Koerner with Ruth E. Carter. Image courtesy of Marvel’s Black Panther / Costume Design by Ruth Carter
Voltage Haute Couture by Iris van Herpen. A black dress was designed with Julia Koerner and printed by Belgium-based firm Materialise.
Hybrid Holism Dress - 3D printed - collaboration with IVH & Materialise Image courtesy of Julia Koerner
In the Oscar in best costume design, an acknowledgement of the innovation in design, for the film’s lead costume designer Ruth E. Carter in Marvel’s Black Panther, one of 2018’s highest-grossing films. The Queen Ramonda was the main character.
In order to bring life inspired by African patterns presented in the initial design sketches, Ruth E. Carter approached Julia Koerner to collaborate on cutting-edge wearables for Queen Ramonda. Zulu hat and shoulder mantle were designed to look as though it were created by technology from the film's fictional setting of Wakanda.
The architect Julia Koerner used traditional techniques combined with her years of experience in designing for 3D printing digital technologies to create the intricate accessories worn by the Queen. She wanted the headdress to convey elements of parametric designs that did not look hand-crafted. Through the use of visual programming software, Koerner and her team developed various geometric pieces through laser sintering and polyamide material. These two components allowed for a higher level of design control and flexibility. Laser sintering is a 3D printing process which lets a material be printed without the need for supports. A material well-suited for skin contact, polyamide is flexible enough to deliver the strength and accuracy Koerner needed for the geometric designs to come to life.
In order to bring life inspired by African patterns presented in the initial design sketches, Ruth E. Carter approached Julia Koerner to collaborate on cutting-edge wearables for Queen Ramonda. Zulu hat and shoulder mantle were designed to look as though it were created by technology from the film's fictional setting of Wakanda.
The architect Julia Koerner used traditional techniques combined with her years of experience in designing for 3D printing digital technologies to create the intricate accessories worn by the Queen. She wanted the headdress to convey elements of parametric designs that did not look hand-crafted. Through the use of visual programming software, Koerner and her team developed various geometric pieces through laser sintering and polyamide material. These two components allowed for a higher level of design control and flexibility. Laser sintering is a 3D printing process which lets a material be printed without the need for supports. A material well-suited for skin contact, polyamide is flexible enough to deliver the strength and accuracy Koerner needed for the geometric designs to come to life.
"The kingdom of Wakanda in the film tells the story of a fictional place where advancements in technology and innovation are taking place. The costumes of the character Queen Ramonda were meant to exemplify the combination of traditional African culture and the most high-tech fashion. The costumes were developed with the most cutting-edge technology of additive manufacturing. Ruth E. Carter, whose vision of Wakanda’s culture and aesthetic, drew from various elements of traditional African cultures as well as technology to create an amazing visual tapestry in the film."
Description of design process by Koerner
More information
JULIA KÖRNER
Julia Körner is recent faculty member at AUD UCLA, where she holds a position as Lecturer in Greg Lynn SUPRASTUDIO. She received her Masters degree in architecture with distinction in Greg Lynn’s master-class at the University of Applied Arts, Vienna, Austria. Furthermore, Julia completed her postgraduate master of science at the Architectural Association in London in emergent technologies and design. For five years Julia collaborated with Ross Lovegrove Studio, London, where she held a senior architectural assistant position; she was involved in major industrial design projects worldwide including Cosmic Series - Red Dot design award winning Lights for Artemide.
Julia has also worked for architects in New York and Austria. Recent research include the collaboration with fashion designer Iris van Herpen for the Haute Couture Show in Paris 2012. Julia has taught academic workshops at University of Applied Arts in Vienna and the Architectural Association visiting school in Paris with architects including Jorge Ayala, Hernan Diaz Alonso and Peter Cook. Since 2010 she has been visiting professor at the Department of Theoretical and Applied Aesthetics at Lund University, Sweden. Further she has been guest critique at SciArc Southern Californian Institute of Architecture and OTIS Institute of Architecture in Los Angeles.
She won several prizes including the TISCHE-Scholarship, MAK Schindler Scolarship Architects in residency program for independent research project in Los Angeles and recently the Architektur-Preis Land- Salzburg scholarship, a one year grant for research project Tangible Data.
Act.>. 01/2013-11/2016
