Digital Fabrication by Neri Oxman and Julia Koerner at Paris Fashion Week

En el 17 de diciembre pasado traiamos en primicia las investigaciones de Neri Oxman.

Voltage Haute Couture by Iris van Herpen. A black dress was designed with Julia Koerner and printed by Belgium-based firm Materialise.

Neri Oxman traia a primera página sus investigaciones sobre impresión 3D de edificios: 2Cinco principios de un nuevo tipo de arquitectura". esta semana saltaaba la noticia del proyecto de la primera propuesta de lo que podría ser el futuro de edificios impresos [Universe Architecture proyecta construir una casa con una impresora de 3D].

On Monday we experienced another first for multi-material 3D printing. For the first time ever, a multi-material 3D printed cape and skirt were featured on the Paris catwalk. Dutch designer Iris van Herpen debut at at Paris Fashion Week with two 3D-printed outfits made in collaboration with the Neri Oxman and Julia Koerner. Oxman teamed up with the Belgian couturier and 3D printer Stratasys to create a bubbled mini skirt and cape covered with special forms, trompe l’oeil seashells. Oxman explains that the joint venture is very much an extension of the series:

“This project has taken ‘Imaginary Beings’ to ‘Wearable Beings’, myths that one can wear. The original collection includes 18 Stratasys 3D printed prototypes for the human body inspired by Jorge Luis Borges' Book of Imaginary Beings. They are human augmentations inspired by nature; but not all wearable. For Iris’ collection at Paris Fashion Week it was important to take the series to the next level, thinking not only about form and materials, but also about movement and wearability. This was a new challenge for me and for my colleagues – Prof. W. Craig Carter (Department of Materials Science & Engineering) and Keren Oxman. It inspired us to design algorithms that could map physical movement and material behaviour to geometrical form and morphological variation in a seamless and continuous wearable surface.”

The 11-piece collection also included a flexible, harness-like little black dress designed with Austrian architect Julia Koerner and laser-sintered by Materialise. Julia Koerner, currently lecturer at UCLA Los Angeles and 3D printed by Materialise. Julia Koerner explains,

“My collaboration with Materialise for the 3D printed dress for Iris van Herpen's Haute Couture Show 'Voltage' 2013 reveals a highly complex, parametrically generated, geometrical structure. The architectural structure aims to superimpose multiple layers of thin woven lines which animate the body in an organic way. Exploiting computational boundaries in combination with emergent technology selective laser sintering, of a new flexible material, lead to enticing and enigmatic effects within fashion design. New possibilities arise such as eliminating seams and cuts where they are usually placed in couture.”

Read less

Stalasso. Experiments in Structural Columns Formations 2009, CNC milled Acrylic, Urethane Rubber and Polyurethane Casting Resin Composites Museum of Science, Boston. By Neri Oxman.

3D-printed outfits. Voltage Haute Couture by Iris van Herpen in collaboration with Neri Oxman.

Detail. 3D-printed outfits. Voltage Haute Couture by Iris van Herpen in collaboration with Neri Oxman. Stratasys Objet Connex 3D Printed Cape.

Other outfits. Voltage Haute Couture by Iris van Herpen.

View more images

Metalocus recommends

Tower 15 by OODA. Photograph by Fernando Guerra

Formal unity and diversity. Tower 15 by OODA

SWITCH, New Simon Headquarters by b720 Fermín Vázquez Arquitectos. Photograph by José Hevia

A house for light. SWITCH, New Simon Headquarters by b720 Fermín Vázquez Arquitectos

Domestic housing in the suburbs. House MF by Balsa Crosetto Piazzi

JULIA KÖRNER

Julia Körner is recent faculty member at AUD UCLA, where she holds a position as Lecturer in Greg Lynn SUPRASTUDIO. She received her Masters degree in architecture with distinction in Greg Lynn’s master-class at the University of Applied Arts, Vienna, Austria. Furthermore, Julia completed her postgraduate master of science at the Architectural Association in London in emergent technologies and design. For five years Julia collaborated with Ross Lovegrove Studio, London, where she held a senior architectural assistant position; she was involved in major industrial design projects worldwide including Cosmic Series - Red Dot design award winning Lights for Artemide.

Julia has also worked for architects in New York and Austria. Recent research include the collaboration with fashion designer Iris van Herpen for the Haute Couture Show in Paris 2012. Julia has taught academic workshops at University of Applied Arts in Vienna and the Architectural Association visiting school in Paris with architects including Jorge Ayala, Hernan Diaz Alonso and Peter Cook. Since 2010 she has been visiting professor at the Department of Theoretical and Applied Aesthetics at Lund University, Sweden. Further she has been guest critique at SciArc Southern Californian Institute of Architecture and OTIS Institute of Architecture in Los Angeles.

She won several prizes including the TISCHE-Scholarship, MAK Schindler Scolarship Architects in residency program for independent research project in Los Angeles and recently the Architektur-Preis Land- Salzburg scholarship, a one year grant for research project Tangible Data.

Act.>. 01/2013-11/2016

NERI OXMAN

Neri Oxman is the Sony Corporation Career Development professor and assistant professor of Media Arts and Sciences at the MIT Media Lab, where she founded and directs the Mediated Matter design research group. Her group explores how digital design and fabrication technologies mediate between matter and environment to radically transform the design and construction of objects, buildings, and systems. Her goal is to enhance the relationship between the built and the natural environments by employing design principles inspired by nature and implementing them in the invention of novel digital design technologies. Areas of application include product and architectural design, as well as digital fabrication and construction.

Oxman was named to ICON's list of the top 20 most influential architects to shape our future (2009), and was selected as one of the 100 most creative people by FASTCOMPANY (2009). In 2008, she was named "Revolutionary Mind" by SEED Magazine. Her work has been exhibited at MoMA (NYC) and is part of the museum's permanent collection. In 2012 the Centre Georges Pompidou Museum (Paris, France) acquired her works for its permanent collection. Other exhibitions include the Smithsonian Institute (Washington, DC), Museum of Science (Boston, MA), FRAC Collection (Orleans, France), and the 2010 Beijing Biennale. She is included in prestigious private collections and has received numerous awards including a 40 Under 40 Building Design + Construction Award (2012), a Graham Foundation Carter Manny Award (2008), the International Earth Award for Future-Crucial Design (2009), and a METROPOLIS Next Generation Award (2009).

Neri Oxman received her PhD in design computation as a Presidential Fellow at MIT, where she developed the theory and practice of Material-based Design Computation. In this approach, the shaping of material structure is conceived of as a novel form of computation. Prior to MIT, she earned her diploma from the Architectural Association (RIBA 2) after attending the Faculty of Architecture and Town Planning at the Technion Israel Institute of Technology, and the Department of Medical Sciences at the Hebrew University in Jerusalem. http://www.media.mit.edu/people/neri

Act.>. 12-2012

Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen (born 5 June 1984, Wamel, The Netherlands) is a Dutch fashion designer who is widely recognized as one of fashion’s most talented and forward-thinking creators who continuously pushes the boundaries of fashion design. She studied Fashion Design at Artez Institute of the Arts Arnhem and interned at Alexander McQueen in London, and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam. Since her first show in 2007 van Herpen has been preoccupied with inventing new forms and methods of sartorial expression by combining the most traditional and the most radical materials and garment construction methods into her unique aesthetic vision.

Van Herpen is often hailed as a pioneer in utilizing 3D printing as a garment construction technique, and as an innovator who is comfortable with using technology as one of the guiding principles in her work because of its sculptural nature and unfamiliar form. The designer’s intent is to blend the past and the future into a distinct version of the present by fusing technology and traditional Couture craftsmanship.

Her singular vision combined with the complexity of her creations has made van Herpen a fixture on the Paris Haute Couture calendar, where she has shown since January 2011.

Van Herpen’s work has been featured in various museum exhibitions, including a major retrospective that is touring the United States since 2015, beginning with a six-month long run at the High Museum of Art in Atlanta. Six of her dresses were acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and seven of her works were exhibited in its highly successful 2016 “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” show. In addition to the above, van Herpen’s creations have been exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and the Cooper Hewitt museum in New York, and the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, among others.

Three solo books have been published on the designer’s work. “Iris van Herpen” by the Groninger Museum to accompany her first solo exhibit, “Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion” by the High Museum of Art to accompany the United States museum tour, and most recently “Iris van Herpen Backstage”. Van Herpen has received numerous awards since 2009. These include the Johannes Vermeer Award, state prize for the arts (2017), the ANDAM Grand Prix Award (2014) and the Grand Prize of the European commission – STARTS (2016).

Van Herpen’s distinct aesthetic viewpoint made her dress many progressive musicians and actresses such as Björk, for whose video's and tours van Herpen has created several dresses, Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton, Cara Delvingne, Daphne Guinness, Miley Cyrus, Gwendoline Christie, Fan Bing Bing, Lady Gaga, Naomi Campbell, Solange Knowles, Natalia Vodianova and Grimes. Her special projects included dressing the actress Scarlett Johannson in the film “Lucy” and dressing Beyoncé for her “Mine” video. As a former ballet practicer herself, van Herpen also created costumes for the Paris Opera and the New York City Ballet, collaborating with the choreographer Benjamin Millepied and the Sasha Waltz dance company in Berlin.

Because of van Herpen’s interest in multidisciplinary approach to creation that goes beyond fashion, she has often collaborated with various artists such as Jolan van der Wiel and Neri Oxman and architects such as Philip Beesley and Benthem and Crouwel Architects. The designer’s interest in science and technology has led to ongoing conversations with CERN (The European Organization for Nuclear Research) and MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology).

Today, van Herpen continues to work within her Amsterdam studio, where new ideas are born, and where Haute Couture orders are meticulously crafted for her global clientele, each creation passing through the designer’s own hands.