The material that creates the shape. Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop by AMO
31/12/2022.
[Paris] France [London] UK
metalocus, DILYANA DRAGOEVA
metalocus, DILYANA DRAGOEVA
AMO, the research laboratory of architectural studio OMA, has designed the first three shops for the French fashion brand Jacquemus, founded in 2009. The first two shops opened in July 2022, in Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Selfridges in London respectively, while a third is due to open in Harvey Nichols, also in London.
“The inspiration for the design of the Jacquemus stores owes to the brand’s origins in the south of France. We wanted to capture the atmosphere of Provence through the materiality of the spaces, which led us to approach the design in a different way altogether. Instead of working with form and deciding on the materials afterwards, we chose the materials at the outset and let them guide the shape of each space”
Ellen van Loon
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Research model. Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop by AMO. Image courtesy of AMO.
Research model. Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop by AMO. Image courtesy of AMO.
Research model. Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop by AMO. Image courtesy of AMO.
Research model. Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop by AMO. Image courtesy of AMO.
Research model. Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop by AMO. Image courtesy of AMO.
Research model. Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop by AMO. Image courtesy of AMO.
Inspired by Jacquemus' origins, AMO has intended to try to capture the atmosphere of the Provence of its birthplace through the materiality of the materials. Both shops are entirely covered in a single material, from cushions to terracruda, materials that evoke the South of France.
The Paris shop in the Galeries Lafayette is covered in white cushions, acting as both seating and display surfaces, conveying tranquillity and inviting users to explore and rest.
The Selfridges shop in London tries to recall the image of Provençal domestic interiors, made up of terracruda and populated by both objects and people. The irregularity of the design brings a sense of naturalness and craftsmanship that invites customers to feel at home.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
The Paris shop in the Galeries Lafayette is covered in white cushions, acting as both seating and display surfaces, conveying tranquillity and inviting users to explore and rest.
The Selfridges shop in London tries to recall the image of Provençal domestic interiors, made up of terracruda and populated by both objects and people. The irregularity of the design brings a sense of naturalness and craftsmanship that invites customers to feel at home.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in London by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Jacquemus Shop-in-Shop in París by AMO. Photograph by Benoit Florençon.
Description of project by AMO
The design of the Jacquemus boutiques in London and Paris began with the idea of testing the limits of working with a single material. Drawing from the brand’s origins in the south of France, AMO aimed to capture the atmosphere of Jacquemus’ native Provence through the materiality of the spaces. Instead of working with form and deciding on the materials afterwards, the materials were chosen at the outset, guiding the shape of the space through the design process.
From pillows reminiscent of the textiles of Provence to terracruda, a clay-based material echoing the landscape of the south of France, the boutiques are clad entirely in a single material, creating continuity throughout each space. In the store at the Galeries Lafayette in Paris, the walls, doors, fitting room, and display elements are upholstered in white cushioning, exuding the ease and comfort of a day spent in bed. A stack of pillows doubles as a seating area and display surface, welcoming visitors to browse and lounge for as long as they want. The store at Selfridges in London, with its floor and shelving, totems, plinths, tables and chairs made from terracruda, is populated by items on display and customers alike, adding a twist to the abstracted image of a domestic Provençal interior. Applied by hand, the material preserves a level of irregularity, which gives the design a sense of naturalness and craftmanship. Directly visible from the street with the seating area carefully framed by the window, the store is more than a space to shop; it invites passers-by to feel at home.
More information
Architects
AMO - OMA. - Ellen van Loon, Giulio Margheri.
Project team
Camille Filbien, Valerio Di Festa and Mattia Locci.
Client
Area
Paris.- 60 sqm. London.- 82 sqm.
Dates
Opening Galeries Lafayette and Selfridges.- July 2022.
Location
Paris, France. London, United Kingdom.
Photography
Think tank of the Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA). AMO
AMO is the think tank of the Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA), co-founded by Rem Koolhaas in 1999. Applying architectural thinking to domains beyond building, AMO has worked with Prada, the European Union, Universal Studios, Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport, Condé Nast, Harvard University, and the Hermitage. It has produced exhibitions, including Expansion and Neglect (2005) and When Attitudes Become Form: Bern 1969/Venice 2013 (2013) at the Venice Biennale; The Gulf (2006), Cronocaos (2010), Public Works (2012), and Elements of Architecture (2014) at the Venice Architecture Biennale; and Serial Classics and Portable Classics (both 2015) at Fondazione Prada, Milan and Venice, respectively.
AMO often works in parallel with OMA's clients to fertilize architecture with intelligence from this array of disciplines. This is the case with Prada: AMO's research into identity, in-store technology, and new possibilities of content-production in fashion helped generate OMA's architectural designs for new Prada epicenter stores in New York and Los Angeles. In 2004, AMO was commissioned by the European Union to study its visual communication, and designed a coloured "barcode" flag – combining the flags of all member states – that was used during the Austrian presidency of the EU.
AMO has worked with Universal Studios, Amsterdam's Schiphol airport, Heineken, Ikea, Condé Nast, Harvard University and the Hermitage. It has produced exhibitions at the Venice Architecture Biennale, including The Gulf (2006), Cronocaos (2010) and Public Works (2012) and for Fondazione Prada including When Attitudes Become Form (2012) and Serial and Portable Classics (2015). AMO, with Harvard University, was responsible for the research and curation of the 14th Venice Architecture Biennale and its principle publication Elements. Other notable projects are a plan for a Europe-wide renewable energy grid; Project Japan, a 720-page book on the Metabolism architecture movement (Taschen, 2010); and the educational program of Strelka Institute in Moscow.
AMO often works in parallel with OMA's clients to fertilize architecture with intelligence from this array of disciplines. This is the case with Prada: AMO's research into identity, in-store technology, and new possibilities of content-production in fashion helped generate OMA's architectural designs for new Prada epicenter stores in New York and Los Angeles. In 2004, AMO was commissioned by the European Union to study its visual communication, and designed a coloured "barcode" flag – combining the flags of all member states – that was used during the Austrian presidency of the EU.
AMO has worked with Universal Studios, Amsterdam's Schiphol airport, Heineken, Ikea, Condé Nast, Harvard University and the Hermitage. It has produced exhibitions at the Venice Architecture Biennale, including The Gulf (2006), Cronocaos (2010) and Public Works (2012) and for Fondazione Prada including When Attitudes Become Form (2012) and Serial and Portable Classics (2015). AMO, with Harvard University, was responsible for the research and curation of the 14th Venice Architecture Biennale and its principle publication Elements. Other notable projects are a plan for a Europe-wide renewable energy grid; Project Japan, a 720-page book on the Metabolism architecture movement (Taschen, 2010); and the educational program of Strelka Institute in Moscow.
Ellen van Loon
Ellen van Loonjoined OMA in 1998 and became Partner in 2002. She has led award-winning building projects that combine sophisticated design with precise execution. Recently completed projects led by Ellen include the shop-in-shops for Jacquemus at Galeries Lafayette and Selfridges (2022), the temporary showroom in Doha and store on Avenue de Montaigne in Paris for Tiffany & Co. (2022-23), Monumental Wonders exhibition for SolidNature in Milan (2022). Bvlgari Fine Jewelry Show (2021), Brighton College (2020), BLOX / DAC in Copenhagen (2018), Rijnstraat 8 in The Hague (2017), and Lab City CentraleSupélec (2017). Other projects in her portfolio include Fondation Galeries Lafayette (2018) in Paris; Qatar National Library (2017); Amsterdam’s G-Star Raw Headquarters (2014); De Rotterdam, the largest building in the Netherlands (2013); CCTV Headquarters in Beijing (2012); New Court Rothschild Bank in London (2011); Maggie’s Centre in Glasgow (2011); Casa da Musica in Porto (2005) – winner of the 2007 RIBA Award; and the Dutch Embassy in Berlin (2003) – winner of the European Union Mies van der Rohe Award in 2005. Ellen is currently working on The Factory Manchester – a large performing arts venue for the city; the renovation of Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) Berlin – Europe’s biggest department store – and the design of Lamarr, a new department store in Vienna; and the Palais de Justice de Lille.
Giulio Margheri
Giulio joined OMA in 2015, working across architecture, scenography, curation, research and product design. Projects Giulio has worked on include the transformation of the historic building Fondaco dei Tedeschi in Venice, and proposals for the renewal of the Galeries Lafayette in Paris, the New Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow, and a new Ministry of Sound in London. In an ongoing collaboration with Prada and Miu Miu, Giulio has designed the sets of Prada and Miu Miu runway shows and developed the brands’ online presence and retail set-up. He recently led the design of retail and scenography projects for Jacquemus, Tiffany & Co., BVLGARI and the Dutch natural stone brand Solid Nature. Giulio has also worked on the set design and curation of institutional exhibitions including Recycling Beauty at Fondazione Prada in Milan (2022); Manifesta12 in Palermo (2018), and PANDA at the Oslo Architecture Triennale (2016). Prior to joining OMA, Giulio worked for Ipostudio in Florence, OFIS in Ljubljana and TD architects in Amsterdam. From 2012 to 2014, he conducted urban research at the I2A - Institute of Architecture in Switzerland, and at Strelka Institute for Architecture Media and Design in Moscow.
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